How to Bonsai, tips and shortcuts

Some tips on bonsai from years of experience. Make leaves grow smaller. Traditional or not? Some shortcuts have amazing results!

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Things You’ll Need:

• Hair trimming scissors or good sewing scissors
• Copper wire, flat and round
• good detailed point wiresnips
• small pea gravel
• mastic (drastic cutting)
• root hormone powder
• various pots
• dirt

Step1

Your scissors should be a very sturdy pair with as narrow a point as you can find, the same goes for your wire cutters. The wire cutters serve a dual purpose, both for wire and tree trimming. The wire needs to be copper as it has a few specific properties I will mention later, but choose several thicknesses and at least a small amount of about 1/4" wide flat copper for bands.

Step2

Want to make your tree to grow thicker quicker? Simple! Place a loose band of the flat copper at it's base. This causes it to grow thicker! Keep an eye on it because you don't need a band mark, all you have to do is loosen it a bit when it gets tight, or remove it altogether.

Step3

To create bends and turns you can wire the branches with differing thicknesses of copper wire, keep a close eye on them as they could scar the tree. I have found a few really fun ways to create some interesting shapes. One is to set it so that it has some sort of shelving above it, balcony rails work well, turn the tree so that the branch you want to grow is pushed by the shelve and leave it there for at least 2 weeks. Windows and walls work great for this method as well. Stringing and staking are two more of my favorite, non-wire methods. With some string (and nylons work great for no scarring) you can slowly pull branches in any direction you want. To get really dramatic results, combine this with a stake, either inside or outside of the pot. One easy way that I like to do is to tie a nylon loosely on a branch and Duct Tape it to something outside the pot, or to the pot itself!

Step4

Groves. All this takes is one tree. Over a period of time, strip the branches off one side. Let the branches grow as long as they want on the side you choose to keep them. I like to let them grow about 1-2" apart and about 6 to 7 branches. Once they have gotten long enough (at least 3-4 inches) the fun starts ;). Take your tree, and a few weeks before the final planting, use the "string and stake" method described above and on the non-branched side, bend it as far as you can with out breaking it or pulling it out of the ground. A bit of wire at the base can help stabilize the direction you want to keep it as well. When you remove the wire and or string and it does not spring back, it is ready. Remove it from the pot, knock most of the dirt off the roots then strip the bark off the non branched side of the tree. You will need a long style of pot, I have found a lot of nice styles in the ceramic serving dish sections at thrift stores. Lay it out in the pot, is it deep enough to bury half the trunk and most of the roots? If so you are ready to proceed. Next, go ahead and put dirt in the pot. Don't fill it but maybe halfway and rest your tree in it to get a feel of space. At this point you will need to trim the roots almost level to the ground. Make sure at least half the roots are still there! Now, on the stripped side of your tree, give it a scrape to open it fresh, dip your finger in root hormone powder and run that down the stripped side. Place the tree gently in the pot and gently put dirt around it until it is about half up the trunk. Use some pea gravel to hold the dirt still and gently water. This is pretty drastic so expect a bit of shock. You should see some return to health in 2-3 days. You will leave it like this until you see some new growth occur. Once that has happened you have rooting. At this point you have two options. The least damaging to the tree is to take it back up, and bend it a bit here and there to create a staggered effect. You can now bury the tree until all you see is the new tree trunks. My way? Cut it apart, put a bit of root hormone powder on each cut, and just plant them around in various spots in the pot. The reason I use one tree to do this is it gives the appearance of a natural grove, all very similar trees in one spot. They will have the same growth rate and same characteristics so you can judge future growth.

Step5

Are the leaves on you little tree just too big for you? Here is a good one. It seems like torture, and maybe it is but it works great! Twice a year, cut half the leaves off (early spring and late summer work best). I like to do it to every other leaf. The next step would be to cut every leaf left in half. A year or two of this and the leaves grow smaller. Now and then one will insist on growing, but just cut it, it will only be one or two!

Step6

Repotting

Step7

Also of topiary befit, you can do many of these things to any larger tree or shrub as well. The thing to keep in mind is any large or deep wound you create should be protected with Mastic. This is easy to find at any garden supply store and will grow out as the tree or shrub develops bark. If I have decided to actually cut an entire branch off, I tend to "shave" it clean, with any sharp implement, than apply the mastic. Do this right and you won't even know that a branch was there!

Tips & Warnings

• Always keep an eye on any binding, either wire or string so as to avoid scarring.
• Never push or pull branches or trunks too far, it is easier to push it a bit more LATER than to deal with it breaking.
• Never cut too much, you can cut more than what is "traditionally" stated, but keep in mind, the more you cut the more time you wait to "fix" an accidental cut.
• Don't put on too much mastic, a little goes a long way.
• Push or pull too far, you break your tree. Very sad!
• Watch when you cut, not so much for the tree as for your fingers!

How to Small Container Garden (kitchen Herbs)

Don't have much space and want fresh herbs? Want them to appear as appetizing as they taste? Try it this way!

Instructions

Difficulty: Easy

Things You’ll Need:

• Several Containers (size and shape depends on your space)
• Dirt
• Watering Can
• A free afternoon

Step1

Decide on container shape and size, if you have the space you may consider square or round containers about 2-3 ft across (the depth can be useful, less transplanting needed later). If you have only window ledges or balcony ledges then you will want to use the window box style. Material doesn't matter, your budget does ;)

Step2

Size is going to matter later so you want to make sure you row things according to size. I do it both by size and color so as to achieve an attractive and tasty project! I will list three categories that work well by size.

Step3

Large, these will be your back rows. Rosemary, Sage, Basils, Fennel, Dill, Tarragon, Garlic Chives, and Chives.

Step4

Mediums, these will be your middle rows. Cilantro, Parsley, Globe basil (habitually grows in a globe shape on a medium height stem), Caraway, Lavenders and Greek Oregano.

Step5

Small and creeping, for your front row. Thymes, Creeping Rosemary, Creeping Oregano.

Step6

Fennel and Dill tend to be the tallest so you may want to place these in the back and centered. Put one Dill in one pot and one Fennel in the other, back and centered. This is also has nice color and a feathery herb so it stands well as a rear centerpiece. An Upright Rosemary can be a great centerpiece as well, just make sure that is is "Upright" and be patient with it, it will be around for a long time! Make sure if you do the Upright Rosemary to not have it in or near a sage pot.

Step7

Basil's come in greens and purples, what I like to do is put a Salad Leaf Basil on one side of the Fennel, a Purple Sage on the other. Put Garlic chives on both sides of these. If you are using a round container, wrap these around the back, if a square, straight across the back. If you are using window boxes, this should be all you put in one. The second container should have Dill in the back and centered, with a Purple Basil (or Thai Basil) on one side and Tarragon on the other. Flank the Garlic Chives same as container one.

Step8

Choose a container and put Globe Basil or Caraway in front of your Dill then a Parsley or Cilantro in front of the Fennel.

Step9

You should have space on the sides of the second row and space on the front row (if you are using window boxes, make row #2 and the front one box, just put the front row to the sides of the first row). In these spaces, creeping herbs look fantastic, and they have space to grow well. I would put Thyme to the sides and work a Creeping Rosemary in the front of one and Creeping Oregano in the front of the other.

Step10

Parsley and Caraway are biennial,(live two seasons, blooming second season only). You will need to plan for them to be replaced, if you don't need parsley seed, plan to replant it next year. Dill, Basil, and Cilantro will reseed itself (annuals, flower one season then die) but most people prefer fresh starts. If you do that at least it gives you a chance to put fresh dirt in. Sage, Rosemary, Oregano, Lavender and Chives are perennials (overwinter, blooming each season once established) so these will be the permanent spots for them, unless you transplant them.

Step11

Mints need their own pots, so if you want Mints you need separate pots. They will take over a pot quickly, but they don't have to be plain. Two ways to make a nice Mint pot. Spearmint tends to be tall, as well as Catnip (another mint) so they make great center pieces. Lavender grows well with Mints and is also a nice centerpiece. Lemon Balm is another mint. Peppermint is mid height so Lemon Balm and Peppermint would be good for sides, front or circling the taller plants.

Tips & Warnings

• Water often.
• Use organic fertilizers.
• With insect problems, use organics as well.
• Trimming promotes growth.
• If you have a slug problem (they love Basil) try plastic lids and cheap beer. At least they pass on happy :D
• Plant early in spring in order to get the most out of the season!
• Do NOT place Rosemary and Sage next to each other, the Sage will most likely die. (I have never seen it live!)

How to Plant Ground Covering

Have a bare area? Have a hill you really do not want to mow? Just plain tired of grass? Then groundcovers are for you!

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Things You’ll Need:

• Starts or seeds
• Spade
• Rake
• Tiller or hoe
• Patience and water!
• Compost (if desired)

Step1

OK, so you have an area that will not grow grass, is too shaded...maybe too soggy? There might be paving stones and you need something in between. Could it be a hill you hate to pull the mower up? There are many different types of ground cover and they all have many uses...

Step2

If you have a hill, for example, then three-toothed cinquefoil, creeping juniper or crown vetch would work well, especially if it is a bit rocky and well drained. • Crown vetch (Coronilla varia) The cover for sunny banks that are too dry for grass, forms an intertwined mass up to 30 cm thick, flowers all summer. • Three-toothed cinquefoil (Potentilla tridentata) A creeper for rocky sites and dry sunny slopes, 25 cm high, small white flowers early summer, leaves turn reddish in fall. • Creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) Grows slowly, but excellent for covering rocky slopes, requires full sun, dry even rocky soil, good air circulation. Cultivars available for heights from 20 cm ('Wiltonii') to 60 cm.

Step3

Lets say the area is too shady and wet, perhaps even grass will not grow there, then there are several great choices, these are great ones! • Ajuga (Ajuga reptans) A fast-spreading ground cover, sun to light shade and moist soil, 10 cm high, spikes of deep blue flowers in late spring over shiny rosettes of leaves, multi-coloured leaf cultivars available. 'Braunherz' is especially resistant to insect attacks. • Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum) Best in moist shady spots where grass won't grow, whorled green foliage, tiny white flowers in spring. • Lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis) Thick-growing upright leaves 10 cm high, suppresses almost all other plants if grown in moist soil and medium to deep shade, fragrant flowers in spring. The bright-orange berries in summer are sufficiently poisonous that children should be prevented from eating them. • Foam flower (Tiarella cordifolia) Grows 25 cm tall in medium to heavy shade and rich moist soil, white flower spikes in spring.

Step4

Now, for that area where you have stepping stones, plain old grass just doesn't do it, eh? Try Thyme and you will be very pleased with the results! Not only does it smell wonderful, but you will have fresh Thyme year round for cooking. • Thyme (Thymus montanus or T. serphyllum) A cover for full sun and dry sandy soil, especially useful between patio stones, leaves scented, has tiny flowers late spring, several good varieties.

Step5

A few others that need to be mentioned and have various uses would be: • Periwinkle (Vinca minor) Medium to dark shade, 15 cm high with shiny green leaves, many blue flowers in spring, withstands drought once established but young plants must be watered, some weeding required. • Goutweed (Ægopodium podagraria) Sun to medium shade, spreads very rapidly (even invasively) by underground roots, cream-coloured leaves, 15 cm high. Control by mowing along edge of patch three times a year. • Japanese spurge (Pachysandra terminalis) Best in light to dark shade and well-drained soil, 15 cm high, some have variegated leaves, excellent to combine with bulb plantings to hide the ripening bulb leaves after flowering. Control by mowing. • Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera) Forms dense clumps of spreading stems, many small blue, pink or white flowers in spring, best in light to medium shade such as under trees, moist soil. Phlox subulata, also called creeping phlox, forms a moss-like mat 15 cm thick with flowers in early spring, needs full sun, well-drained soil, and some weeding, the middle of large plantings tends to die off.

Step6

Now that you have decided where you want ground cover and what you are going to use in it, now you have to figure out how! I am going to take you through the various steps for different areas and some tricks that should make it fill out the quickest. The hard part is really waiting, not the doing as we all would love instant results...

Step7

Step one: Decide how you want to procure the starts, you can start many from seed, buy larger plants and separate pieces (the many rooted sorts) or buy flats of small starts. I usually start things like thyme from seed as it is the cheapest way to go, but there is the waiting time! When I separate or plant from seed I need a good bag of soil as well as a lot of small pots. To decide how many you need, plan on using twice the recommended amount. If it says to give 6 inches in between the plants, figure it on 3-4" instead. Once you have the plants, progress to the next step!

Step8

Now you will need to prepare the area, at least a little bit. If it is a hilly, sandy area and you have chosen to plant the varieties that handle those conditions right, then you really are just going to need to plant. If it is that area that is wet and shady, all you are going to need to do is clear it. The same will go for if you are planting in a walkway with stepping stones. If it is not a large area a hoe will do the trick, try to get it as even as possible, a rake helps with this. If the area is large, the a tiller would make life easier and make the project go a lot faster! It wouldn't hurt to work a bit of compost in, but it isn't really needed.

Step9

Now that your area is ready and you have the starts you need, don't follow the directions completely. You want to plant them too close, so they fill the area faster! Start at the farthest away area and plant them evenly and outwards (like painting yourself into a corner, you don't want to plant yourself into a corner!). Water well, and remember to water regularly until they have started to grow. Now you have ground cover that is interesting and makes your life easier!

Tips & Warnings

• Don't rush the starts if you start from seed, you really want them to establish.
• They will fill out if you plant them further apart, it really depends ho fast you want them to fully cover.
• Junipers grow slow so if you need fast erosion control for a hill, you may want to plant them but put something in between until they have established fully.
• Epsom salts are an excellent and cheap fertilizer, one TBSP to every one gallon of water is a good mix. To start though, when you have just planted if you sprinkle them by hand liberally everywhere you have planted and water it in that can speed up the plants taking to the area sooner!
• Some of these covers are very drought resistant but at the start if you do not water them regularly, they WILL die.

How to Get Seeds From an Artichoke

This is how you can grow your own artichokes and get them to seed so you can produce you own from home grown seeds.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Things You’ll Need:

• Starter artichokes or seeds to start.
• Spade.
• PATIENCE!

Step1

You can start from starts or seeds, but it is obvious that you need to buy them before you can produce your own!

Step2

Patience is very important as it can take an artichoke up to two years before it will produce it's first bulb! At this point you are no doubt going to want to eat some so plant twice as many as you think you should.

Step3

If you are starting from bought seed (the easiest way) sow seeds one inch deep, spaced 5-6 inches apart in full sun. Rows should be spaced 5-6 feet apart. Thin plants to two 2/12 feet apart. Make sure this is a 'quiet' low traffic part of the bed as they will be there for quite some time.

Step4

Slugs really like the seedlings so keep a close eye one them, a great trick I like to use is to place a copper strip around the bed as slugs will NOT cross copper. Just make sure nothing leans over it and no dirt covers it when you are watering because they will make their way in!

Step5

The growth time is 90-100 days, but you will not see a bulb or flower the first year, once it does grow the bulbs you can harvest some for yourself and let the rest 'go to seed'. The flowers are very attractive. They are related to thistles which are also edible.

Step6

When you cook an artichoke, there is fuzzy stuff inside that you have to scrape off the heart before eating it. That 'fuzzy stuff' is a huge mass of seeds. If the artichoke is not picked when it is ready to eat, the petals (which we usually think of as 'leaves') open. The 'fuzzy stuff' grows, becomes purple, and makes a beautiful display. The petals fall off, and there is that glorious purple soft-looking mass of seeds! After a week or so, the seeds dry, and blow away in the wind. The best way to save the seeds is to take an extra large sized knee high nylon and carefully place it over the flower when it starts to look dry. This can be a tricky time but well worth daily checking as this way you will lose none of them!

Tips & Warnings

• Artichokes like a lot of space so don't crowd them!
• Artichokes need to be grown and harvested quickly for best results. You will need a high quality compost and well rotted manure in generous amounts each season. Sand and organic material should be worked into a soil that is “heavy.” Well-drained soil is significant for good production.
• On a monthly basis side dress each plant with a high nitrogen fertilizer.
• Artichokes require frequent irrigation during the growing season. Moisture deficiency will result in loose buds of inferior quality. On the other hand, artichokes won't tolerate standing in water, so plant the artichokes either on mounds or in rows with irrigation furrows. Irrigate the artichokes about once a week; irrigate more often in warm areas and less often in areas with heavy soil. Inexpensive Water timer systems are available

How to save your own Tomato Seeds

Get that perfect tomato? Find a great heirloom tomato at the farmers market? Here is my way to keep the seeds and grow them the next year. Make one tomato equal hundreds!

Instructions

Difficulty: Easy

Things You’ll Need:

• Tomato
• Water
• Plastic wrap
  
• Glass
• Spoon
• Paring knife
• Fine mesh sieve
  
• Paper plate
• Small envelopes (paper is best!)

Step1

Find that perfect tomato! This is a brandywine, an heirloom that I am particularly fond of.

Step2

Cut the tomato in half, across the tomato, like this. This is the inside of a brandywine, note the lack of pith, they are a great tomato but you won't get as many seeds (worth the effort!). This photo is by Laurel Garza: Owner, Laurel's Heirloom Tomato Plants (look them up!). She told me they forgot to save these seeds, after this pic was taken...they couldn't help but eat it...yes, that is how good a brandywine is!

Step3

Scoop out the seeds and goo with either your finger or a spoon and put them in a glass.

Step4

Add a bit of water and give it a stir.

Step5

Now you want to cover the top of the glass with plastic wrap. Put a small hole in it to promote air flow, a paring knife works great! This helps them ferment, that will give you the separation you will need.

Step6

Put this glass of seed stuff/water on top of the fridge or in a sunny window.

Step7

The process of ferment/separation takes about 2-3 days so every night take off the plastic wrap and give the mix a stir, if you use new wrap DON'T forget the hole!

Step8

The top of the water will look "scummy" when the fermentation process has removed the goop from the seeds. It also helps destroy many of the tomato diseases that can be harbored by seeds.

Step9

Take a spoon and carefully scoop the goop/scum off and discard it.

Step10

Dump the rest in a fine meshed sieve and carefully rinse. Stir while rinsing, carefully with your finger to remove any bits of pulp that may still be attached. Tap the sieve against the sink a couple times to help get rid of any water left.

Step11

Spread them out in a single layer on a paper plate.

Step12

Set them somewhere safe, such as a nice unused cupboard area.

Step13

Stir them around every day. Make sure to spread them out in a single layer again! They can take a week or more to dry.

Step14

If you use paper envelopes to hold them you have a bit of leeway but if you are using plastic envelopes they have to be DRY or you will have useless, moldy seeds!

Step15

Save till next year, share with family and friends and grow them yourself!

Tips & Warnings

• If you are doing more than one kind of tomato, make sure to label them!
• Utilize the internet for sowing and growing instructions, there are different ones for different tomatoes!

How to repot your Bonsai and give it basic maintenance

It's that time of year! Time to do some maintenance on your bonsai. This isn't too hard, and will give it a lot of needed love for you little tree :D

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderate

Things You’ll Need:

• Sharp, tightly pointed scissors
• Wire cutters
• Wire wrapping pliers
• Small needle nose pliers
• New, well draining soil
• Root hormone powder

Step1

Gather your tools in one spot.

Step2

Get your tree, and put it on the table with all your stuff handy, you'll be working quickly, so you'll want everything in reaching distance!

Step3

Take the tree out of the pot (you can use a new pot but it is not necessary) and gently squeeze the soil all the way around it till the roots are almost completely exposed. I have a nice moss carpet going on this one so, since it keeps the tree insulated and keeps it from drying out I chose to keep it.

Step4

Get the scissors...and...cut off the roots! Sprinkle root hormone powder on the roots.

Step5

Test the depth in the pot - The tree should rest so that the base is even with the top of the pot. If there is any 'gap' then fill under, and around that with soil and pat it down well. Trim as desired :D

Step6

If you decide that it needs some wiring, grab that copper wire and wrap a coil (I love coil wrappers, makes it so easy!).

Step7

Pull the coil loose and work it carefully onto where you want it.

Step8

Water well and as soon as you see any new growth, you will know you have made your tree happy!

Tips & Warnings

A good rule is never remove more from the top than you do from the bottom!